Doctor on Everest

Doctor on Everest

A Memoir of the Ill-fated 1971 International Everest Expedition

Book - 2005
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Baker & Taylor
The man who served as expedition doctor on the ill-starred 1971 climb up Everest shares details of his ascent up the Southwest face, which was hampered by bad weather, troubling local headlines, and a death. Original.

Perseus Publishing
Peter Steele had already spent several years trekking and working in the Himalayas when he reluctantly took the position of medical officer on the 1971 International Everest Expedition. He expected it to be a hard climb; what he didn’t expect were the series of disasters that included a near-epidemic, a walk-out, and the death of a team member. Struggling against bad weather, hostile news reports, and violent infighting, the members still attempted to climb Everest via the treacherous, never-before-attempted southwest face. As much an exposé of Steele’s colorful climbing companions — foreign and Sherpa — as a chronology of the perilous day-to-day challenges of attempting a difficult new route on the world’s highest mountain, Doctor on Everest is a white-knuckle ride into an extreme environment and a compelling look at the limits of human endurance.

Book News
Three decades ago the author accepted the position of senior medical officer on the International Everest Expedition, in which climbers from 11 countries proposed to scale the mountain by way of a treacherous route up the southwest face. His tale of the grueling journey (the group experienced a near-epidemic, a walk-out, and a grisly death) was first published in 1972. Recently Steele a Yukon-based physician and author considered updating it to bring it more in line with what's now known about mountain sickness and other details. But he realized that altering the text would alter the flavor of a book "written when the journey to Everest was less cluttered than it is today." Therefore he offers it just as it was as a new adventure. The volume is illustrated with b&w drawings, maps, and 26 pages of photos. Annotation ©2005 Book News, Inc., Portland, OR (

Publisher: Vancouver : Raincoast Books, 2005, c1972
ISBN: 9781551927657
Characteristics: 222 p., [24] p. of plates : ill., ports. ; 23 cm


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